La Trippa e il Lampredotto

by Lisa on August 21, 2010

L'Antico Trippaio - Via Dante Aligheri

I love Trippa and Lampredotto!

I remember the first time I tasted Lampredotto.

It was when I was 22 and within my first few weeks of arriving in Florence for the first time.  One of my Italian class mates,  I think his name was Tyler, was a chef in training and asked me if I wanted to taste something one day at lunch.  He said, “I’m not going to tell you what it is but if you don’t like it, I’ll eat it.”  So, I tasted my first panino al lampredotto and sadly for Tyler, I loved every bite of it!

I then tasted Trippa alla Fiorentina and loved that too!  I learnt to cook tripe and I remember my father was very pleased when I returned home from Italy and cooked him a big plate of Trippa.  My mother had never cooked it at home as she was not a big fan.

The tripe is cooked slowly in a really good tomato sugo and sprinkled with parmesan cheese when served.  If you would like to make it yourself, here is the recipe.

La Trippa Fiorentina

So today after returning last night from two weeks in America, I was very much looking forward to some yummy Trippa Alla Fiorentina for lunch.
Originally a poor man’s dish in the 1400s, there were lunch places in buildings that sold the tripe and by the 1800s, cooked tripe was sold from painted wooden carts, pushed by hand and later, attached to bicycle mechanisms to pedal them about.

I have quite a few favorite places to eat a panino con il lampredotto and la trippa.   If I want a quick lunch and the street experience, then I will eat at the mobile tripe stands.  This is real ‘Street-food Fiorentino’.

My two favorites are at the Mercato di Porcellino and the second in Via Dante Alighieri in Piazza De’ Cimatori behind Via Dei Calzaiuoli.   The latter is great because it is always open, even late on a Sunday afternoon.  If I eat the panino with the lampredotto, I’ll have it with the Salsa Verde, which is traditionally made with parsley, celery, garlic and olive oil, salt & pepper.  You can also have a hot chilli sauce and I sometimes have a little bit of that too.  The bread roll is sliced in half and then dipped quickly into the broth where the lampredotto has been cooked.  This just adds to the whole delicious experience!  And of course the panino is best accompanied with a cup of chianti!  This lunch is a favorite of mine when wandering through Florence on a Sunday afternoon, usually in the Autumn and Winter months.

il Panino al Lampredotto

When I eat Tripe at the street stalls, I usually get it in a dish instead of inside a bread roll.  I prefer to just taste the tripe and it’s less messy this way too.  It’s typical for me to be wearing a white shirt when I choose to eat something like tripe in a tomato sauce and if eating it from a roll, then odds are that half is going to end up down my front!

My other favorite place to eat these Florentine delights is at Nerbone, at the Central Market San Lorenzo.  Usually on a Saturday after we have finished buying our weekly food at the market, we will stop at Nerbone for lunch.  This very popular and historical eatery has been operating in the market since 1872.  It is the sister restaurant to Alla Vecchia Bettola.  Apart from the wonderful tripe and lampredotto, they also serve various pasta dishes, roast beef, bollito (boiled meats) and vegetables which change according to the season.

Nerbone - Mercato di San Lorenzo, Florence

Unfortunately Nerbone was closed today until the 30th August. ‘Chiuso per Ferie’ Closed for the annual August holidays as many other businesses in Italy at the moment.

Chiuso per Ferie - Closed for Holidays

So what exactly is Tripe and Lampredotto?  Tripe is made from the first three chambers of the cow’s stomach.  These are each different in appearance, the Rumen is flat and smooth, the Reticulum which has the honeycomb surface and the Omasum which has a layered leaf surface.  Tripe must be washed and cleaned thoroughly.  It is then boiled for two – three hours in salted water.  When you buy tripe from the Tripaio, you can either buy it already pre-cooked or raw.  In the summer months, tripe is also eaten cold as a salad with other vegetables and tomato but this is not my favourite way to eat it.

Lampredotto is made from the fourth and final stomach of the cow, the Abomasum.  It is a beige brown colour and has a very wrinkly appearance.   Doesn’t sound that attractive I know and I have to admit both tripe and lampredotto do not look very appetizing at all.  But you must put any preconceptions you may have about tripe and lampredotto aside and at least give it a try.

And if you don’t like it, I promise I’ll eat whatever you leave behind!

Trippa - Tripe

Trippa - Tripe

Lampredotto in the foreground

Tripperia M & L - Mercato Centrale

Menu at L'Antico Trippaio

Enjoying my Trippa!

Cooked Lampredotto

Emiliano enjoying his Panino e Vino

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